In the birthplace of gelato, artisan-style struggles to compete with commercially made "fluff"

Lauren Wright, reporter
Kat Higgins-Thomas, photography
Ben Popple, videography

As many as 10 million tourists travel to Florence every year to see the city of stone's many historical sites and troves of fine art. There is one attraction, however, that just might attract more visitors per day than even Michealangelo's David.

In a city known for its Catholic imagery, Marys and Madonnas, many might say it is a sin to visit Florence without eating gelato. The frozen treat also might seem necessary when the streets of Florence burn like Death Valley in the summer heat.

Gelato comes with many choices.

So when the heat takes its toll and gelato beckons, know that not all gelaterias are the same.

Modern gelato or the good old stuff

Commercial gelaterias dot the tourist areas, but down smaller side streets, following signs that say "Produzione Artiginale," you can find the real gelato: artisan gelato.

Gelateria Albizi is one of those who make genuine, homemade, artisan gelato. Albizi's owners report that they produce about 40 kilos, or about 88 pounds, each day - much of it for the city's discerning locals.

The owner of Gelateria Albizi, Luciano Giaquinto, said he moved his family business to Florence three years ago from Sicily. The southern Italian island also is known for its gelato. Giaquinto's family founded the business in 1983 with their own recipe.

Despite the onslaught of cheaply made commercial gelato, locals such as Hugo Garcia, who prefers homemade gelato, have kept the business alive and stuck on superior quality.

"With industrial, it's made with industrial things," Garcia said. For gelato artiginale, they "use products from Italy. [The Giaquintos] make it with their own hands. For that reason the gelato is better. I like it. The best in the world."

Gelato and technology

The gelato industry has raced along with technology, able to produce literally tons of low-cost fluffy, glitzy, colorful eye candy to satisfy the tides of tourists washing up on Florence's shores each year. Only a handful of craftsmen have stuck to their artisan gelato production processes that preserve the quality for which Italy has been known. It costs one Euro to make a kilo (2.2 pounds) of commercial gelato, while it costs five Euros to make one kilo of artisan gelato.

This difference in production cost sometimes hurts Gelateria Albizi. Giaquinto says that he sees the effect in smaller profits but that enough locals prefer the homemade kind to keep him in business.

Take a look at how artisan gelato is made at Gelateria Albizi.

Albizi's recipe has remained exactly the same since its creation. In the face of advances in technology the past quarter century, the artisan process of gelato production has changed only slightly. In the past, the gelato had to be mixed by hand and constantly attended. Today, with the help of machines, with their timers and spinning mechanisms, production is more efficient. Giaquinto said the process still requires effort and expert knowledge of ingredients and measurements, however. For example, if the gelato gets too cold, the end result is frozen sorbet, not creamy Italian gelato.

Fine ingredients = fine gelato

The many flavors of gelato.

Gelateria Albizi not only makes its own gelato, but also claims to use the finest ingredients specific to each flavor. For example, the pistachios come from Sicily and the Nutella flavor is made with Nutella direct from the manufacturer. The chocolate comes from fudge produced by Pernigotti chocolate factory, a local favorite. Albizi makes 23 flavors, plus one extra flavor that changes four times a year. During the summer season, the bonus flavor is watermelon.

Lorraine Eldred from Britain eats gelato in the summer when she visits Florence. "I'm not even an ice cream eater and I like it."

Gelato production begins with fresh milk, which Giaquinto pasteurizes in his gelateria. Water and fresh ingredients are added next. In contrast to the hand-made "produzione artiginale," commercial gelato is usually made using a powdered mixture of artificial flavorings.

Some tourists can tell the difference, too. Peter Turo of Ohio said that among the "50 million gelateria" choices populating Florence, Albizi's artisan-style creams "just taste better."